Veterans will tell you that their annual Pilton pilgrimage is a task akin to painting the Forth Bridge.
With stages coming and going each year as the 900-acre site mutates and regenerates, there’s absolutely no hope of seeing everything the festival has to offer – every time you tick one of the 50-odd stages off, another sprouts in it place. In recent years the off-piste offerings have become almost overwhelming, with the sprawling fantasia of Shangri-La competing for your attention with post-apocalyptic soundsystems, gargantuan mechanical spiders, kamikaze karaoke, underground shebeens and 24-hour table football, not to mention the potentially ruinous ‘brownies’ being hawked in the Stone Circle.
But the upshot is that while the bigger stages are largely populated by XFM guff and vintage cornballery, a more exciting, unpredictable and mind-altering festival is always at hand – you just have to throw away the first half of the programme and go where Lauren Laverne fears to tread. Here’s what to see at Glastonbury 2014 to make it one to remember.
GO TO A BOAT PARTY
Strictly a warm weather pursuit really, but there’s a massive fuck-off boat docked outside the Wow! Stage in Silver Hayes where your hosts valiantly attempt to bring a bit of Croatian beach party chic to the Somerset Levels every afternoon. On Friday you can kick off a weekend of Jackmaster spotting with the Numbers party, while on Saturday it’s Toddla T with Redlight and pals followed by Aus Music on Sunday with Will Saul, Bicep and more.
DESPACIO
If you’ve not yet had a chance to soak up one of the world’s slickest sound systems – an experience hailed by FACT’s own Joe Muggs as “monumental” and “transcendent” in his Sonar report – get thee to Silver Hayes at once, where James Murphy and Soulwax’s 50,000-watt rig will occupy its own bespoke tent. Expect long queues, refined selections and many shiny disco balls.
TEKLIFE
Best five-in-a-row of the weekend goes to the indestructible Glade Stage, home of all things glitchy, ambient and UV-enhanced, where the regular crusty brigade are interrupted on Saturday evening by the Radiophonic Workshop, Dick Mills’ 21st century reboot of the BBC’s pioneering electronic music department (5.30pm) and art provocateur-turned-audiovisual showman Dinos Chapman (6.30pm). Best of all, Teklife dons DJ Spinn and Taso will bring some premium footwork to the floor accompanied by dance crew The Era – wellies will not be accepted (7.55pm). For afters, Machinedrum picks up the juke thread in a live set (8.55pm) while electronica kingpin Jon Hopkins rounds off the session with his clean-cut euphoria (10.10pm).
Pro tip! If you find yourself moored at the Pyramid Stage while your mates insist on setting up their camping chairs for Elbow, dive into The Beat Hotel for respite and buttermilk pancakes. Seth Troxler, Four Tet, Jackmaster and Tiga are on hand with the tunes – check at the venue for listings. Also a handy pitstop in case of rain.
SUN RA ARKESTRA
West Holts is the most reliably tasteful of the major stages, representing music from all eras and continents – reggae, jazz, soul, Afrobeat, disco, hip hop and all manner of global sounds – so it’s an ideal place to park up for the afternoon if you’re feeling frazzled. This year’s best bits include Goldfrapp (Saturday, 8pm) and a Friday afternoon double whammy with rebooted hip hop supergroup Deltron 3030 (2.30pm) followed by the unstoppable cosmic force that is the Sun Ra Arkestra, led by 90-year-old jazz wizard Marshall Allen (4pm).
BLOCK9
Radical design duo are behind the post-apocalyptic fantasia in this patch of the South-East Corner, where you’ll find some of the best DJs of the weekend. London Underground is a decaying tower block with a tube train bursting through the fifth floor (dBridge, Youngsta and more are on the bill) while the outdoor Genosys stage hosts legends from throughout dance music history, including Lil Louis (Friday, 1am), DJ Pierre (Saturday, 1am) and Francois K (Sunday, 1am). Don’t miss David Morales and singer Robert Owens paying tribute to Frankie Knuckles (Thursday, 9pm) inside NYC Downlow, a ruined tenement where disco, vintage house and funk are the order of the day.
GO TO HEAVEN
Alright, no one’s in the immersive Shangri-La area for the music – sample acts in include DJ Badly Mash Up, Jon Bongly and The World’s Tallest DJ – but then again, everything is possible in Heaven (Thom Yorke played a secret set last year). And once you’ve recalibrated your festival brain to avoid the tedious main stages, this place should start to feel like home. Locate the Heavenly Arena for sets by The 2 Bears, Rob Da Bank and more, play mini golf at The Leisure Centre and hit up The Deluxe Diner for 24-hour frozen daiquiris.
This year, in an update to its ongoing narrative, Shangri-Hell has been revealed to be a evil corporation – “the source of power behind all of the world’s most corrupted and cynically profiteering elite” – divided into a maze of bureaucratic departments. So as well as the main Shangri-Hell stage, which will feature sets from Jackmaster (him again), Oneman, A Guy Called Gerald, Skream and more, you can visit The Defence Department (yep, Jackmaster’s playing), get a ‘full body bonus’ in the Finance Department or see the inner workings of The Boardroom.
PRETEND TO BE A RAPPER THEN WATCH SOMEONE DO IT PROPERLY
By Sunday afternoon you should have pretty much forgotten your name, address and what you do for a living, so to avoid premature anxiety about returning to your desk on Tuesday morning, now’s the time to get stuck in to all the activities you’d find risible in the Real World. Yes, it’s hip hop karaoke (Stonebridge Bar, 4pm). Nail the first line of ‘Juicy’ and quit while you’re ahead, before heading to the John Peel Stage to watch Chicago prodigy Chance The Rapper doing it properly (8.45pm).
THUNDERBIRDS ARE GO!
You just don’t get this kind of cutting edge programming at Unsound, frankly. Conductor Charles Hazlewood and his orchestra – including members of Portishead and Goldfrapp – present the music of Barry Gray, composer of the enduring themes to Thunderbirds, Captain Scarlet and Joe 90. Sick.
FALL DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE
Find the Rabbit Hole. Just find it. Hidden through a crawlspace somewhere in The Park, inside you’ll find Glastonbury’s signature pick’n’ mix of singer-songwritery fluff, tribute acts, gypsy-jazz-funk-bagpipes septets and related gonzo nonsense but HELLO, you are at Glastonbury – just bloody go with it.
Well off the beaten path in the nocturnal South-East Corner lies The Common, home to another four stages and yet more interactive music, art and performance, plus life drawing classes and the annual tomato fight (naturally). Head to The Temple late on Friday for AFX (3am) and an all-analogue live set from A Guy Called Gerald and Graham Massey.
BEST OF THE REST:
LV at The Blues, Saturday, 10.30pm
Mella Dee at La Pussy Parlue Nouveau, Friday, 8pm
DJ EZ at Arcadia, Friday, 9pm
John Cooper Clarke in the Cabaret Tent, Bella’s Field, Saturday, 10.40pm
Mogwai in The Park, Saturday, 11pm
Connan Mockasin at William’s Green Stage, Friday, 8pm